Dobeck EJK 3.5 Fuel Injection Controller for Kawasaki Mean Streak 1600's
Since purchasing my Mean Streak I have done many modifications to make it my own from cosmetic and comfort to performance. On the topic of performance, I have Cobra 2 into 1 exhaust, Dual Caddman air filters with K&N's, Fuller block off plates and started off with the resistor mod to get some more fuel into the engine. Ever since day one I have been looking into fuel controllers and reading very mixed reviews. I wanted something that was adjustable on the fly, no dyno tuning required and was flexible enough to not only add fuel to the lean spots but subtract fuel from the rich spots. The goal was not just performance but the ability to dial it back and get some MPG's for cruising or open it up a bit when you want to crank it up.
I decided to go with the Dobeck EJK 3.5 for all of these reasons and the fact that the product is designed and built right here in the USA. They also have great tech and you can actually talk to a human if you call!!!!....
This install write up will be in 2 stages. First the install and first impressions and second I will be doing a temporary install of Dobeck's wideband O2 sensor and AFR gauge to be able to dial in all of my settings and actually see what is going on with the bike instead of just guessing. In addition, this will show me what the air fuel ratios are, not just a wide open throttle but also at any point between cruising and WOT.
The installation is very basic and easy enough for anyone with enough skill to be riding these bikes. I will be showing all of the steps because we all had to start from the beginning at one point.
Click on any of these pictures to enlarge.
Step 1. Remove the seat by taking off the 2 4mm Allen screws (one on each side) of the seat
I decided to go with the Dobeck EJK 3.5 for all of these reasons and the fact that the product is designed and built right here in the USA. They also have great tech and you can actually talk to a human if you call!!!!....
This install write up will be in 2 stages. First the install and first impressions and second I will be doing a temporary install of Dobeck's wideband O2 sensor and AFR gauge to be able to dial in all of my settings and actually see what is going on with the bike instead of just guessing. In addition, this will show me what the air fuel ratios are, not just a wide open throttle but also at any point between cruising and WOT.
The installation is very basic and easy enough for anyone with enough skill to be riding these bikes. I will be showing all of the steps because we all had to start from the beginning at one point.
Click on any of these pictures to enlarge.
Step 1. Remove the seat by taking off the 2 4mm Allen screws (one on each side) of the seat
Step 2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal connections and secure them out of the way.
(Note that the tank does not need to be removed completely for this install but it really makes it much easier to access the injectors)
(Note that the tank does not need to be removed completely for this install but it really makes it much easier to access the injectors)
Step 3. Remove the Allen screw that holds the tank bezel in place.
Step 4. Lift the tank bezel up to access the two electrical connections and unplug them both.
Step 5. Disconnect the electrical connection for the tank near the battery.
Step 6. Remove the 12mm bolt at the rear of the tank.
Step 7. Remove the hose connection at the rear of the tank and then raise the fuel tank from the rear so that you
have access to the 3 fuel and vent connections. Have a rag handy as there will be a small amount of fuel lost when you
disconnect these lines. Remove the 3 connections and remove the tank. Be sure to set it on some towels or something
soft to prevent scratches. (if you have LED's lighting attached to your underside of the tank, be sure to disconnect them
first)
have access to the 3 fuel and vent connections. Have a rag handy as there will be a small amount of fuel lost when you
disconnect these lines. Remove the 3 connections and remove the tank. Be sure to set it on some towels or something
soft to prevent scratches. (if you have LED's lighting attached to your underside of the tank, be sure to disconnect them
first)
Step 8. Decide where you want the EJK controller to be located. I went with the left side cover where the factory tools are located and routed the wiring harness through a hole in the back of it. Run your wiring harness from the location you went with up under the tank location. The time you take to make a clean install at this step will pay for it's self.
Step 9. Locate and disconnect one of the factory fuel injection harnesses and connect the EJK harness in between (inline) to the factory connection then do the other. This will make sure that you get the same harness connection to the same injector. Now do the other one.
Step 10. Take time to secure the new harness safely with zip ties and ensure that you route the wires away from any spots where they may be pinched, get any rubbing, and are away from high heat sources. Also make sure that there is some movement in the wires as you don't want them too tight. This is also a great time to clean and polish the top of your engine and all of those hard to reach spots.
Step 11. Put the tank back on and reconnect all 4 fuel and vent connections making sure the clamps are on and tight and put the 12mm bolt back in. Make the tank electrical connection near the battery. Put the tank bezel back on after making the 2 electrical connections under it first. Reconnect the negative side of the battery including the Fuel Controller negative hook up.
Step 12. Start the bike and check the controller to ensure that the LED's scroll back across the unit for a few seconds then go to one green light. If you get flashing LED's in the 1st and 8th position, verify your connections. Also check for any fuel leaks.
If everything checks out good at this point, re-install the seat and take it for a spin.
The EJK comes pre-programmed with a tune that is for modified exhaust and air intakes. This setting puts all 3 zones at level 4. (Note that when any of the green, yellow or red settings are at level 3, the bike is running stock with no extra fuel) There are 6 different settings you can adjust on this controller for our bikes.
These are found by pressing the mode button with the bike on. The first is a Green LED and it is the cruising mode, next push of the mode button gets the Yellow LED.
This one is the acceleration mode. Another push of the mode button gets the Red LED and this is for full throttle mode. The next set of 3LED's will be two sets of LED's for each mode. The Green and Blue LED's sets when the "Green Zone" cruising mode is on, the Yellow and Blue LED's set when the "Yellow Zone" or Acceleration mode is on and finally the Red and Blue LED's set when the "Red Zone" or full throttle mode.
I mounted the EJK controller to my tank with a suction cup for initial tuning but it will be kept in the side cover for everyday use.
Step 11. Put the tank back on and reconnect all 4 fuel and vent connections making sure the clamps are on and tight and put the 12mm bolt back in. Make the tank electrical connection near the battery. Put the tank bezel back on after making the 2 electrical connections under it first. Reconnect the negative side of the battery including the Fuel Controller negative hook up.
Step 12. Start the bike and check the controller to ensure that the LED's scroll back across the unit for a few seconds then go to one green light. If you get flashing LED's in the 1st and 8th position, verify your connections. Also check for any fuel leaks.
If everything checks out good at this point, re-install the seat and take it for a spin.
The EJK comes pre-programmed with a tune that is for modified exhaust and air intakes. This setting puts all 3 zones at level 4. (Note that when any of the green, yellow or red settings are at level 3, the bike is running stock with no extra fuel) There are 6 different settings you can adjust on this controller for our bikes.
These are found by pressing the mode button with the bike on. The first is a Green LED and it is the cruising mode, next push of the mode button gets the Yellow LED.
This one is the acceleration mode. Another push of the mode button gets the Red LED and this is for full throttle mode. The next set of 3LED's will be two sets of LED's for each mode. The Green and Blue LED's sets when the "Green Zone" cruising mode is on, the Yellow and Blue LED's set when the "Yellow Zone" or Acceleration mode is on and finally the Red and Blue LED's set when the "Red Zone" or full throttle mode.
I mounted the EJK controller to my tank with a suction cup for initial tuning but it will be kept in the side cover for everyday use.
This is a great option for tuning the bike because you can watch the LED's on the controller go through their stages. You see when the bike switches from the cruising mode to the acceleration mode and again to the full throttle mode. You can also adjust how much fuel goes into each mode in real time while you are riding. If you want to pull some fuel out of the cruising mode to get some MPGs, you can do this with just a couple clicks of a button by setting that zone at less than 3. (Level 3 is stock fueling) Once you get your modes set, you can just put the controller in its permanent home and forget about it until you want to make any changes.
My first impressions are that the bike runs smooth and seamless. It pulls hard in acceleration and full throttle modes and is very easy to use. I have been playing with the different settings for when it switched to the yellow and red modes but will be doing further testing soon.
Over all I am super happy with the results, quality of the product and the price they are charging. Keep this one in mind if you are looking for a tuner.
http://www.electronicjetkit.com/Crui...number=8120096
I finished the testing with the Dobeck SAFR to check the air fuel ratios and I was a bit surprised. I will just be covering the basics of this install as there is a lot of good info in their instructions as well as YouTube on this topic. You can also PM me if you have any questions or want any additional photos of the install.
So, here we go.
First you need to remove one of your exhaust heat shields because you need to drill a hole in your exhaust. (don't freak out, it will be ok)
This should be located more than 6 inches away from the head. I used a punch, then a 1/4" pilot bit and finally the supplied 25/64th bit.
Next, into the hole goes a 1/4 20 nutsert. I really like the way they did this because there is no welding and it is very low profile. When your all done with the testing you
can just put the supplied 1/4 20 Allen head screw with the brass washer into the nutsert and it is all hidden and leak free under your heat shield.
My first impressions are that the bike runs smooth and seamless. It pulls hard in acceleration and full throttle modes and is very easy to use. I have been playing with the different settings for when it switched to the yellow and red modes but will be doing further testing soon.
Over all I am super happy with the results, quality of the product and the price they are charging. Keep this one in mind if you are looking for a tuner.
http://www.electronicjetkit.com/Crui...number=8120096
I finished the testing with the Dobeck SAFR to check the air fuel ratios and I was a bit surprised. I will just be covering the basics of this install as there is a lot of good info in their instructions as well as YouTube on this topic. You can also PM me if you have any questions or want any additional photos of the install.
So, here we go.
First you need to remove one of your exhaust heat shields because you need to drill a hole in your exhaust. (don't freak out, it will be ok)
This should be located more than 6 inches away from the head. I used a punch, then a 1/4" pilot bit and finally the supplied 25/64th bit.
Next, into the hole goes a 1/4 20 nutsert. I really like the way they did this because there is no welding and it is very low profile. When your all done with the testing you
can just put the supplied 1/4 20 Allen head screw with the brass washer into the nutsert and it is all hidden and leak free under your heat shield.
From here you will follow the instructions they provide and assemble the Bosch wide band O2 sensor into the sensor chamber, install the compression fitting into the nutsert and install the assembly onto the exhaust making sure that the O2 sensor is straight up.
Locate where you want the gauge to be at on the tank and install it onto the suction cup base. Make sure it is high enough on the tank so you can see it while riding.
Decide what power source you want to use for the gauge. It comes with 3 plug options with battery terminals, battery charging port style or cigarette style plug.
Now you are ready for testing if when you power up the bike, the gauge sweeps across its screen.
Decide what power source you want to use for the gauge. It comes with 3 plug options with battery terminals, battery charging port style or cigarette style plug.
Now you are ready for testing if when you power up the bike, the gauge sweeps across its screen.
And the results are in..... I really wish we had a completely stock bike to use for a true baseline. There are many factors that will change the results on the reading based on what mods you have done with your bike. To get a base line for my bike, I set all three zones on the EJK to level 3. This acts as a pass through and does not modify the factory settings at all. If you use a setting bellow level 3 then you are subtracting fuel from the factory setting which you may want to do for cruising and MPGs.
First let me set the stage for the conditions when I was testing.
Elevation is between 500 - 600 feet, temps where between 45-55 degrees. Premium fuel used. Dual Cadmann air intakes with K&N's and Cobra 2 into 1 exhaust. Most of the results where taken with the bike cruising on flat ground at 70 mph for comparison.
While on the factory bike settings only and while cruising at 70 the AFR was about 14.8 - 15 just a little lean.
(It's hard to keep a close eye on the needle, EJK, speedo and the road)
In acceleration mode from 70 with stock settings, the readings where 12.8 - 13
In full throttle mode with stock settings, the readings where approximately 12 - 12.25
I then spent a long time trying different levels of fuel with the tuner to find what had good readings and what pulled good when you get on it.
For me, I wanted good fuel economy while cruising but wanted to be able to get on it and be able to merge onto the freeway or pass my friends Harleys. I set the green zone (cruising mode) to 3.5. This gave me a solid 14.5 - 14.7 AFR at 70 mph. I set the yellow zone (acceleration mode) to 5 which gave me 12 - 12.25 AFR from 70mph. Finally I set the red zone (full throttle mode) to 5. This gave me about 11.5 AFR from 70mph.
The ideal air fuel ratio is at 14.7 and is called Stoich. If our bike used a closed loop oxygen sensor system then the computer would be making constant changes to try and maintain these settings. As speedracer has said, our bikes use air intake temps along with coolant temps combined with factory computer settings to determine the fuel settings. That is why you can install a resistor on the air intake temp sensor and fool the bike into adding more fuel. Our bikes originally had restrictive exhaust, essentially a "hot air intake" system that pulled air from the left side of the engine, through the engine to get to the throttle body. This was all in the name of emissions for the EPA.
These findings show that under the conditions that my bike is set up along with the temperature I was riding in and the elevation I am at, the factory computer does in fact do a good job with air fuel ratios after we modify the intake and exhaust. However, this is only one part of the story. With the EJK 3.5 controller bumped up from the factory settings, it is a different bike all together. Our bikes are strong and pull well in factory trim but when you fix the air intake setup and do a proven exhaust (not all created equal. Some aftermarket exhausts actually reduce hp. 2 into 1 exhausts have shown to be some of the best at adding hp) these bikes really wake up. When you can add fuel safely on top of those mods, you are adding many GPM (grins per mile).
Does this put all of our questions to bed FINALLY!? No, if I where testing when it's 105deg out in the Texas summer or high up in Colorado I would have different results. This is why I went with the Dobeck EJK 3.5, I can tune it on the fly for changing conditions if I choose. I can also put the AFR gauge back on in about 5 minutes if conditions change or if I do any other mods to the bike. It's all about flexibility and options.
Again, this is what works for me and my setup and was meant to shed some light on how our bikes work and react to mods.
Here is the link to entire write up with comments and follow up. http://www.riderforums.com/general-mean-streak/79288-dobeck-ejk-3-5-fuel-controller-install.html
First let me set the stage for the conditions when I was testing.
Elevation is between 500 - 600 feet, temps where between 45-55 degrees. Premium fuel used. Dual Cadmann air intakes with K&N's and Cobra 2 into 1 exhaust. Most of the results where taken with the bike cruising on flat ground at 70 mph for comparison.
While on the factory bike settings only and while cruising at 70 the AFR was about 14.8 - 15 just a little lean.
(It's hard to keep a close eye on the needle, EJK, speedo and the road)
In acceleration mode from 70 with stock settings, the readings where 12.8 - 13
In full throttle mode with stock settings, the readings where approximately 12 - 12.25
I then spent a long time trying different levels of fuel with the tuner to find what had good readings and what pulled good when you get on it.
For me, I wanted good fuel economy while cruising but wanted to be able to get on it and be able to merge onto the freeway or pass my friends Harleys. I set the green zone (cruising mode) to 3.5. This gave me a solid 14.5 - 14.7 AFR at 70 mph. I set the yellow zone (acceleration mode) to 5 which gave me 12 - 12.25 AFR from 70mph. Finally I set the red zone (full throttle mode) to 5. This gave me about 11.5 AFR from 70mph.
The ideal air fuel ratio is at 14.7 and is called Stoich. If our bike used a closed loop oxygen sensor system then the computer would be making constant changes to try and maintain these settings. As speedracer has said, our bikes use air intake temps along with coolant temps combined with factory computer settings to determine the fuel settings. That is why you can install a resistor on the air intake temp sensor and fool the bike into adding more fuel. Our bikes originally had restrictive exhaust, essentially a "hot air intake" system that pulled air from the left side of the engine, through the engine to get to the throttle body. This was all in the name of emissions for the EPA.
These findings show that under the conditions that my bike is set up along with the temperature I was riding in and the elevation I am at, the factory computer does in fact do a good job with air fuel ratios after we modify the intake and exhaust. However, this is only one part of the story. With the EJK 3.5 controller bumped up from the factory settings, it is a different bike all together. Our bikes are strong and pull well in factory trim but when you fix the air intake setup and do a proven exhaust (not all created equal. Some aftermarket exhausts actually reduce hp. 2 into 1 exhausts have shown to be some of the best at adding hp) these bikes really wake up. When you can add fuel safely on top of those mods, you are adding many GPM (grins per mile).
Does this put all of our questions to bed FINALLY!? No, if I where testing when it's 105deg out in the Texas summer or high up in Colorado I would have different results. This is why I went with the Dobeck EJK 3.5, I can tune it on the fly for changing conditions if I choose. I can also put the AFR gauge back on in about 5 minutes if conditions change or if I do any other mods to the bike. It's all about flexibility and options.
Again, this is what works for me and my setup and was meant to shed some light on how our bikes work and react to mods.
Here is the link to entire write up with comments and follow up. http://www.riderforums.com/general-mean-streak/79288-dobeck-ejk-3-5-fuel-controller-install.html
